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Almaty: From Soviet Drabness to Central Asia’s Cultural Capital

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Almaty, Kazakhstan’s largest city with a population of 2.2 million, has undergone an extraordinary transformation since the fall of the USSR. Once a typical Soviet metropolis, it has reinvented itself into the beating heart of Central Asia, blending modernity with tradition to create one of the most dynamic cities in the region.

Today, Almaty boasts a world-class metro system, a flourishing banking and finance sector, luxury boutiques, and contemporary shopping malls alongside its vintage bazaars. The city has also become a culinary hotspot, fusing traditional Kazakhstan flavors with modern techniques, drawing international praise. In fact, Almaty’s food scene, with its “neo nomad” cuisine, has become a key part of the city’s cultural renaissance, with restaurants offering innovative dishes like marinated horse meat samosas and smoked brisket.

The city has evolved into the cultural epicenter of Central Asia, with an ever-expanding array of world-class museums, galleries, and performance spaces. Almaty is home to the Abilkhan Kasteev State Art Museum, which showcases Kazakhstan’s rich artistic heritage, as well as the avant-garde Tselinny Center of Contemporary Culture, opening next year, which will highlight cutting-edge music, theater, and art. Public spaces, such as the Almaty Metro, feature beautiful, elaborately decorated stations that pay homage to both Kazakhstan’s past and present.

Long-time American resident Dennis Keen, who advocates for historic preservation, notes that Almaty is “incredibly livable.” The city offers green spaces, a clean environment, and a reliable public transport system that makes owning a car unnecessary. The thriving creative scene, coupled with its lively culinary culture, has transformed Almaty into a destination for entrepreneurs, artists, and foodies alike.

Once, the city was a modest fort under Russian rule, growing into a modest city in the mid-19th century. After Kazakhstan gained independence from the Soviet Union in 1991, Almaty’s status as the national capital was moved to Astana (now Nur-Sultan). However, instead of dampening the city’s spirit, this shift sparked a cultural and entrepreneurial revival. Almaty quickly became a beacon for creativity and innovation, its entrepreneurs and artists embracing the freedom that came with this new chapter.

The culinary scene is a prime example of this reinvention. Almaty chefs have embraced the legacy of the nomadic people who once roamed the vast steppes of Kazakhstan, reinterpreting traditional techniques like open-flame cooking and meat-smoking in a contemporary context. Restaurants such as Auyl in the Medeu Valley offer luxurious takes on traditional dishes, using heirloom ingredients and slow-cooked meats to create artful seven-course tasting menus. The city’s neo nomad cuisine marries Kazakhstan’s past with its present, delighting visitors with a fusion of flavors that speak to both the region’s history and its future.

Along with food, art is thriving in Almaty. The city’s underground art scene is just as exciting as its public displays, with hidden gems like a secret private museum, whose location and owner are closely guarded. This mysterious collection offers an eclectic mix of Kazakhstan’s cultural history, from medieval chastity belts to Soviet-era mementos. Meanwhile, the forthcoming Tselinny Center of Contemporary Culture will provide a hub for contemporary thought, bringing together artists, intellectuals, and creatives from around the world.

Public art is another area where Almaty excels. The city is dotted with striking pieces of Socialist Modernist architecture and vibrant murals. Keen has spent years documenting and preserving these hidden treasures, showcasing them on walking tours that reveal the city’s Soviet-era artistic roots.

Almaty’s appeal is not just limited to its cultural renaissance. For those seeking adventure, the surrounding Tien Shan Mountains offer stunning scenery and a glimpse into Kazakhstan’s nomadic traditions. Visitors can stay in traditional yurts and embark on horseback treks to remote lakes, where ghost forests add an eerie atmosphere to the natural beauty.

 

Uzbekistan Turns to Electric Vehicles in Its Push for Green Energy Transition

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Uzbekistan, Central Asia’s most populous country, is taking bold steps to reduce its carbon emissions and shift towards a greener economy, with electric vehicles (EVs) playing a pivotal role in this transition. Historically dependent on fossil fuels for electricity, Uzbekistan has been ranked as one of the world’s most carbon-intensive economies by the World Bank. To combat this, the nation has introduced significant measures to encourage the adoption of EVs as part of a broader green growth strategy.

In a bid to make electric and hybrid cars more affordable, Uzbekistan eliminated excise and customs duties on these vehicles five years ago. This move slashed prices by as much as 50%, according to estimates, leading to a surge in EV sales. Over the past three years, sales of electric cars have grown tenfold, reflecting the country’s increasing commitment to green energy.

For consumers like Timur Chutbaev, a project manager based in Tashkent, the lower prices were a strong incentive to invest in an electric car. Chutbaev explained that powering his EV is far cheaper than using diesel or gasoline vehicles, given Uzbekistan’s government-subsidized electricity rates. Charging his car at home costs him just $5 for 500 kilometers (310 miles) of driving, making EV ownership both economically and environmentally attractive.

Although EVs currently account for a small share of the market, their numbers are rising. In 2022, 25,000 electric vehicles were sold out of a total of 1.7 million car sales. Chinese EV giant BYD, which dominates Uzbekistan’s imports, has further entrenched its presence by opening a plant in the Jizzakh region. With an annual capacity of 50,000 plug-in hybrids, the facility marks BYD’s first venture outside of China and is expected to serve the broader Central Asian market.

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However, the rise of EVs in Uzbekistan would not have been possible without investments in infrastructure. Alexander Abdullaev, CEO of local EV dealership Megawatt Motors, recalls the initial challenges of selling electric vehicles without an adequate network of charging stations. To promote EV adoption, his company built several charging points across Tashkent and surrounding regions and offered free charging services for two years. Today, hundreds of charging stations operate throughout the country, helping EVs become more accessible.

Despite the progress, Uzbekistan faces challenges in meeting its ambitious climate targets. By 2030, the country aims to reduce its emissions per unit of GDP by one-third from 2010 levels. While increasing the number of EVs on the road is a crucial step, it will not be enough on its own. The electricity grid that powers these vehicles is still primarily fueled by natural gas, a fossil fuel. In 2021, over 80% of the nation’s electricity came from gas, which significantly contributes to global warming.

Uzbekistan is actively investing in renewable energy to address this issue. Over the past five years, the country has boosted its renewable energy mix from 12% to 20%, with growing interest in hydropower and solar technology. David Knight, the World Bank’s lead country economist for Central Asia, emphasized that improving energy efficiency and reducing emissions are critical for Uzbekistan as its economy rapidly expands.

For now, demand for EVs remains strong, and Megawatt Motors is expanding its operations by training salespeople to cater to this burgeoning market. Abdullaev believes that Uzbekistan’s established automobile industry, which began in 1995, provides a solid foundation for producing homegrown electric vehicles in the near future. With the country’s green energy transition in full swing, Abdullaev is optimistic: “Anything is possible.”