Exploring the Véloroute Gourmande: Canada’s 235km Culinary Cycling Trail
Launched in 2022, the Véloroute Gourmande offers a remarkable 235-kilometer cycling adventure through the picturesque landscapes of Québec, connecting the vibrant city of Montréal to the charming city of Sherbrooke. This trail weaves through idyllic villages and scenic lakes, featuring over 100 culinary stops that highlight the region’s rich food culture.
In 2019, I had a memorable experience cycling 42 kilometers on a gravel path that once served as a train line across Lake Champlain in New England. That ride, combined with a recent leisurely 32-kilometer jaunt near my Vermont home, prompted me to embark on a five-day journey along the Véloroute Gourmande with my sister, a more seasoned cyclist.
My adventure began in the pouring rain, clad in padded bike shorts under running tights, multiple shirts, and a rain jacket. I soon found refuge in the welcoming Yamaska Café in Farnham, one of the coziest coffee shops I’ve encountered. As a beginner cyclist with a strong appetite, I was eager to indulge in the trail’s culinary offerings.
The Véloroute Gourmande, which debuted in April 2022, features a diverse array of culinary experiences, from farmers’ markets and vineyards to casual pubs and upscale farm-to-table restaurants. As a food writer and chef, I was excited to explore the culinary heritage of the Québec countryside, swapping my usual foraging grounds for this new gastronomic adventure.
While much of the trail overlaps with the Route Verte—North America’s longest network of cycling paths at 5,300 kilometers—the Véloroute Gourmande stands out as a slow travel food tour. Cyclists can enjoy hearty French fries, blueberry tarts, maple syrup-laced coffee, and spirits infused with local herbs and mushrooms.
The interactive map of the Véloroute highlights 120 stops, marked by charming icons representing local fare. Highlights include golden paninis with house-cured ham and cheese, dark ales with spruce tip notes, and delectable cheeses to enjoy on the go.
In addition to culinary delights, the route features suggestions for elegant accommodations, culturally significant sites, and bike shops for necessary repairs. While cyclists can tackle the trail in either direction, the recommended starting point is Montréal, where the terrain is easier and offers the chance to build endurance for the more challenging segments ahead.
The first leg, a 45-kilometer ride to Saint-Jean-sur-Richelieu, boasts 55 culinary stops. To maximize our dining experiences, my sister and I extended our stay to explore this section fully.
As a chef, I’ve often planned travels around culinary experiences, but this journey limited my options to those accessible by bike. I focused on stops that showcased the best of Québec cuisine, avoiding restaurants with extensive menus that relied on frozen goods. Instead, I prioritized those that emphasized local, seasonal ingredients, featuring classic dishes such as French onion soup and crêpes.
On our journey, we pedaled alongside the majestic St. Lawrence River, navigating urban and suburban landscapes. In Chambly, 29 kilometers east of Montréal, we discovered a delightful main street brimming with recommended stops, allowing us to savor a latte, indulge in chocolate truffles, and enjoy house-smoked pork ribs, all while admiring the town’s historic stone fortress.
In Saint-Jean-sur-Richelieu, we stumbled upon our first épiceries, which often serve as local cafés. One shop featured a local farmer selling fresh produce right on the porch, a common sight along our route that provided a unique glimpse into the region’s local offerings.
On the third day, we experienced a shift in scenery as we rode towards Granby, passing through wooded areas, marshes, and expansive farmland. Although rain fell intermittently, our spirits were lifted by stops at some of our favorite eateries. The boutique atmosphere of Yamaska Café offered gourmet products and delicious treats, including a luscious pecan tart and pistachio mousse cake.
At Absintherie des Cantons, a distillery near Granby, we marveled at the copper alembic used for distilling gin and enjoyed a tasting of their award-winning absinthe, which transformed into a milky elixir when mixed with water from a stunning fountain.
The final stretch of our trip was marked by beautiful weather, rolling hills, and stunning vistas. With over 60 kilometers to cover each day, we prioritized stops that combined coffee, meals, and desserts to maintain our momentum.
By the end of our fifth day, we arrived in Sherbrooke, exhausted but still eager to sample local delights. My inaugural experience with bikepacking on the Véloroute Gourmande exceeded my expectations, allowing me to savor unique dishes and enjoy the breathtaking landscapes of Canada. Next time, I’ll pack lighter and leave more room for cheese in my bags!
