The Walserweg Gottardo: Exploring Switzerland’s Hidden History through the New Trail
Nestled between Switzerland and Italy, the newly inaugurated Walserweg Gottardo hiking trail offers more than just breathtaking Alpine vistas; it unravels the story of the Walser, a people whose history has long been overshadowed by the grandeur of the High Alps.
Spanning 210 kilometers, the Walserweg Gottardo is more than a physical journey—it’s a voyage through time. Opened in May 2024, the trail follows the migration route of the Walser, who trekked across the Alps from their ancestral home in Valais to settle in Grisons and beyond during the 12th to 14th centuries.
The Walser, originally from the Canton of Valais in southwestern Switzerland, were shepherds, cattle breeders, and subsistence farmers. They settled in remote mountain villages, preserving their unique culture and language, which remains largely unintelligible to Standard German speakers. Their migration, known as Walserwanderungen, remains shrouded in mystery. Historians debate whether it was driven by overpopulation, feudal pressures, or other factors.
During my hike on the Walserweg Gottardo, I was struck by the sheer difficulty of the terrain that the Walser once navigated with livestock and possessions. Starting in the village of Binn, the trail ascends through the high-altitude Albrunpass, a route that the Walser used centuries ago. The landscape is rugged and sparsely populated, with snowy gullies and steep paths that challenge even the most seasoned hikers.
In villages like Riale, known as Chärbach in Walsertitsch, the traditional blockbau homes and local cuisine—such as Bettelmatt cheese and gnocchi Walser—offer a glimpse into Walser life. These remote settlements, often cut off by heavy snowfall, have managed to retain their cultural identity through isolation and resilience.
One of the trail’s highlights is the Walserhaus Museum in Bosco Gurin, one of Switzerland’s oldest surviving Walser settlements. The museum, founded in 1938, is a treasure trove of Walser artifacts, from hand-carved cradles to antique looms. It serves as a vital repository for Walser history and culture, which is increasingly at risk due to migration and changing lifestyles.
The Walserweg Gottardo not only celebrates the Walser’s historical migrations but also aims to support their culture in the present. With fewer than 50 permanent residents in Bosco Gurin today, initiatives like the trail are crucial for sustaining Walser traditions. The hope is that increased tourism and new opportunities will help maintain these unique communities.
The trail’s impact extends beyond preserving history; it fosters a connection between past and present. As hikers walk in the footsteps of the Walser, they help keep the culture alive and offer hope for the future of these remarkable Alpine communities.
